DIYINHK DDC-1 MOD

DIYINHK web store now opened …
 http://www.diyinhk.com/shop/6-ddc-pump

DIYINHK +  DDC-1T  = The BAD BOY DDC

Make a 22W DDC pump that is very quiet and knocks the socks off of anything in the WCing pump realm for cost, compactness and size.

Martin’s Labs DIY video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E5kPQnSxvQ

How would one obtain the components …

GingerJohn posted his DDC-1T + DIYINHK Sanyo conversion in this way:

DIYINHK as a seller
Everything you could want from an eBay seller; good communication, helpful and great service. Check out his store, he has a few interesting things including some pre-modded pumps.  DIYINHK Sanyo PCB for the DDC-1T
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Laing-DDC-water-pump-10W-repair-kit-MCP350-/230585420948?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35aff64c94

The mod work
OK, it is not the easiest thing in the world to do, but then I am no great solderer and I had no huge problems. I would recommend this for anyone who has a bit of soldering experience, likes to tinker and wants a quick project. All in all it took me a little under 2 hours to get the pump working again.

If you have a broken pump then you have nothing to loose, spend the $10 and have fun!

The finished product
So much better! Whilst the pump is still audible it is now bearable at night when things are quiet, and I don’t notice it at all during the day. As I write this my fridge is running in the background, and I can’t hear the pump at all.

I am a silence nut, which is the main reason I had a DCP 2.0 in the first place (inaudible with the case closed), so I might consider running the pump through a controller anyway, but for now I don’t mind it. And neither does the puppy, which is the main thing.

Now for GingerJohn’s mod …

Here is the original PCB in place. Note that this is the DDC-1T, so it is different from the MCP355 which are based in the DDC-3 series.

I found it quite hard to pop the coil arrangement out. The way I did it was by cutting the small bit of glue round the edge with a knife, prising the four tabs apart and inserting a screwdriver under the coil (marked in red).

It is glued in pretty well, but eventually it came out:

Flipping it over again and there are 12 coil wires and 4 (one already done in pic) in/output wires to un-solder.

Once the wires are un-soldered the PCB need to be taken off the coil. It is very well glued on there and I actually ripped two of the components off the old PCB doing this. No turning back now!

Old PCB on the left, new one on the right. Note how few components are on the new PCB compared to the old one. Less things to fail is always good.

That was the easy bit, now for the harder bit. I had to extend 3 of the coil wires, one because I cut it by accident and two because they were too short. I used a strand of wire from a multi strand cable to do this, and soldered the joint. Sadly I forgot to take pictures of it, so you will have to use your imagination.

Once I had extended the wires and scraped the remaining glue off the coil (I used a file) it was time put my amazing surface soldering skills to good use. It is important to place the coil back in the casing so that the PCB is aligned properly, otherwise you could have problems assembling it.

All done! It was actually easier that I expected. I use a slightly different method to the one Martin uses in his video. I bend the wire so it sits in the right place, then I use the iron to hold the wire down and heat it up, then after 3-4 seconds I apply a bit of solder to the contact point. If it is hot enough the solder will melt and flow nicely. Remove the iron and job done.

I applied the included heat sink and re-assembled, et voila! One working pump: